This is the result of an interview I gave to Dave Hanson. David is a writer commissioned by the Baker City Chamber of Commerce to write about the area. This interview is now included in the visitbaker.com press kit!
Motorcycle Tours from Baker City
Ten years ago, Portlandite Steve Folkestad stumbled upon Baker City with his motorcycle and a few friends. He knew nothing about Baker, the roads, or that little canyon down the way. But he had three hotel rooms at the Geyser and the guys were ready to ride. That weekend of two-wheeled exploring has grown into the annual Hells Canyon Motorcycle Rally, a June event that hopes to draw 10,000 riders from around the country to its tenth anniversary celebration this summer.
Steve began saddling up the iron horse in 1970 when he bought a Yamaha R-5 350 twin. Since then he has ridden all over the northwest and burned through dozens of bikes. While there are myriad tour options on the sweeping, twisting, climbing roads out of Baker, Steve will ride us through the Rally’s four featured tours, open all summer.
Readers beware: If Steve were in charge of Baker City’s slogan it would read:
“Historic Baker City, Home of the Hells Canyon Motorcycle Rally
Where the roads and women are curvy,
The steaks are tender
And the drinks are stiff.”
Best to keep him on the bike.
Hells Canyon Scenic Byway, 250 miles
This easy day ride follows the nationally designated scenic byway. The route circles the Wallowa Mountains by way of Halfway and Joseph then north through the small towns of Enterprise, Lostine, and Wallowa. “The route has thousands of curves, plenty of adrenaline, and little traffic,” Steve says. “Start along the Powder River, stop by the Oregon Trail Interpretive Center if you haven’t been there before, then continue to Hole in the Wall rest stop to stretch the legs while contemplating this geologic oddity. Grab breakfast in Richland or quirky Halfway.” Beyond Halfway, the road becomes a paved Forest Service stretch as it climbs over a pass toward Joseph. “This has lots of switchbacks and ‘over-the-cliff’ moments so you want to be on your best behavior through here,” suggests Steve. Take a break at the Hells Canyon Overlook and pick out the Seven Devils on the horizon. Before moving on, amaze your partners by naming all seven: He Devil, She Devil, Twin Imps, Devil’s Throne, Tower of Babel, Goblin, Ogre. Feeling sufficiently knowledgeable, continue toward Joseph. “The big corner preceding Joseph is one of those turns you’ll never forget,” Steve says. “The Wallowas come into view behind the little town of Joseph like some scene out of the Swiss Alps. Every rider remembers that corner.” A detour down Wallowa Lake Road in Joseph leads to a vertigo-challenging rest stop. Take the Mt. Howard Tram 8,000’ up to the peak for a birds-eye view of the route. Wander the streets of Joseph for dining, shopping, and art galleries. After Joseph, a great stretch of motorcycle road leads through the Wallowa Valley and the mountain towns of Enterprise, Lostine, and Wallowa. Finish the loop on I-84 from La Grande if Historic Baker’s bars are calling your name, or keep meandering via Highway 203 through Medical Springs.
Ghost Town Loop
“This is a lot of people’s favorite, as it offers a variety of terrain, cultural gems, and an option for challenging riding,” says Steve.And it starts with a bang. “The opening stretch over Dooley Mountain and down to the Burnt River on Hwy 245 is one of my Top 10 rides ever,” continues Steve. “Twisting and curving, but smooth and lightly trafficked. It’s a must-do. Along the Burnt River, the road opens up with long, sweeping curves and plenty of sight distance. The speed freaks really love it down here.” At the town of Unity, the road passes through dense forests to arrive at Austin Junction. Then it’s on to Sumpter, the center of gold mining in Oregon. “Keep an eye out for the old dredge that dug up all the tailings piles you pass through here. Operating until the 1960s, Sumpter pulled out more gold than all of California combined. We usually eat breakfast or lunch here. The butt-challenged have the option of returning the way we came. But the adventurous trek on toward the ghost towns ahead. Granite has a few dozen residents and is that rare ghost town with a gas option. From Granite to Ukiah you can have all the fun you want on curvy, empty roads, but it’s remote so be careful.” From Ukiah, follow the Grande Ronde River for a smooth valley ride. Soak aching rider muscles at the Lehman Hot Springs. “The clothing challenged will especially like it here,” says Steve. The final stretch has two options: the quick plow down I-84 from Hilgard State Park or the scenic route through Union, across I-84 and down through Haines. Many bikers enjoy the Frontier Tavern watering hole in Haines or a longer pause to fill the stomach tank at the Haines Steakhouse where you can trade the motorcycle seat for a real log booth.
Mountain Loop, 210 miles
Warning: Steve recommends this route for advanced riders only.
“This route really takes the road less traveled,” says Steve. “It is made up of one-lane Forest Service roads with no center line, no guardrails, and no one to save you. But, of course, the beauty is stunning and you get it all to yourself. I always stop in Prairie City for gas and a bite at Chuck’s Little Diner for friendly, good food cooked on a grill. From the town center, take a left onto FS Rd 62 and continue south for a climb into the Strawberry Mountains and their remote, dense forests. You won’t see anybody or anything but cattle.” From the Strawberry Mountains, continue 28 miles on Forest Service Rd 62 until arriving at FS 16 junction. Go left on FS 16 and roll to the south of Lookout Mountain and the Monument Rock Wilderness, crossing the North Fork Malhuer River and Little Malheur River. From the summit at Murray Hill descend to Hwy 26, entering it 19 miles east of Unity. Then head north to the Hwy 245 Junction, bear right on Hwy 245 and follow the Burnt River. Continue on 245 over Dooley Mountain for one of Steve’s favorite rides. Turn right on Hwy 7 in Salisbury for the seven-mile homestretch into Baker City.
Devil’s Tail, 182 miles out and back
The signature ride of the Hell’s Canyon Motorcycle Rally, this is the shortest and least complicated. The basic idea is simple: ride into the deepest part of the deepest canyon in the country. That’s right, the Snake River has out-cut the Colorado River to make this gouge deeper than the Grand Canyon, though not as sheer and vertical. The ride leaves from Baker heading toward Richland. First-timers to the area will want to detour through the Oregon Trail Interpretive Center to learn about the real road-trippers who first journeyed out here on their horse and wagons. That should cure any belly-aching about butts aching. Grab breakfast at Annie’s or the Shorthorn in Richland. Then climb over to Halfway before the canyon descent begins. “You must pull into Scotty’s Gas Stop in the town of Pine Creek between Halfway and the river,” says Steve. “Not only do they serve good food, it’s the only gas for the remainder of the ride. Now it’s on to Oxbow and the famous Devil’s Tail, 22 miles of biker nirvana. At the dam, find your choice: You can trade the bike and pavement for a jet-boat and rapids or spin around for a quick return to Baker City.” Jet-boat tours leave from the dam for further exploration of the powerful Snake River. While the ride can easily be done in a half-day, a slow tour and/or jet-boat ride can extend it to full-day length. For more info about the Devil’s Tail click here.
